Burner Won't Ignite

On a range, the symptom of "burner won't ignite" is one of the most frequently reported homeowner complaints — and it almost always traces back to a small set of root causes that you can investigate in under fifteen minutes without specialized tools. On a gas cooktop, you hear the spark module clicking but the burner does not light. Before opening any access panel, unplug the appliance (or shut off the gas where applicable), give it a few minutes for residual current to bleed off, and have a flashlight, a phone camera for documenting cable routing, and a small bowl handy for any water that may release when you disconnect a hose.

Most service technicians work through the same checklist for this complaint, and the order matters because each successive cause requires more disassembly. 1. The burner cap is misaligned over the burner head. 2. The burner ports are clogged with food residue. 3. The igniter is wet from a recent cleaning or boilover. 4. The igniter electrode is cracked or corroded. Walk these in order and stop as soon as one of them resolves the symptom — there is no need to keep digging deeper if an early-list fix restores normal operation.

Practical do-it-yourself steps you can attempt safely: Step 1: Lift the burner cap, brush the burner ports clear with a stiff toothbrush, and reseat the cap so it sits flat. Step 2: Allow the burner area to fully dry after cleaning. Step 3: Inspect the igniter electrode for visible cracks or corrosion. Step 4: Confirm gas is on at the supply valve and the LP/Natural gas conversion is correct. After completing the steps, run a short empty cycle to confirm the symptom is gone before reloading the appliance with laundry, dishes, or food. Document anything you replaced — if the same fault returns within a few weeks, the technician will want to know what has already been ruled out.

When to escalate to a service technician: If a single burner is consistently failing while the others ignite normally, that burner's switch or igniter wire is the culprit; both are field-replaceable on most ranges. If the unit is still under the manufacturer's parts-and-labor warranty, do not perform any repair that involves opening a sealed system, breaking a tamper sticker, or substituting a non-OEM part — any of those can void coverage. Keep the model number printed on the rating plate and the date of purchase ready when you call; a competent technician can usually narrow the diagnosis over the phone if you describe what you have already tried.